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Colors of Birch →Kokosom

Role

Product designer, then co-founder and creative director

Years

2011 — 2016

Method

3D printing, made to measure

Run as

Fabrigate Tmi, then Kokosom Oy

Kokosom frame, Kokosom and 145 embossed on the temple
Chapter 01Colors of Birch · a brand, from 2011

Colors of Birch was never a company. It was a brand — a place to put 3D-printed spectacles and sunglasses while working out whether anyone wanted them. From 2013 I ran it through my own practice, Fabrigate Tmi.

Eyewear was the hard case: a frame has to sit on a face, hold a lens, and survive being folded twice a day. The Titanic collection was built with Vesa Pallasvesa, an optician with forty years behind the counter. His constraints — hinge, bridge, lens seat — set the geometry. Sintering set everything else free. Launched in Paris in 2011, exhibited in Vienna and London in 2012.

Titanic collection lineup
Titanic frames, fashion shoot
Image · 1:1 · sketches, frame studies
Chapter 02Kokosom Oy · co-founder, creative director

The brand proved the frames could exist. It did not prove anyone would buy them. So the next version was a company with a name on the trade register: three founders, two from business and one from design, and a catalogue built as a grammar rather than a list — nine fronts, three temples, six colours. Fit was not an option. Fit was the default.

Every frame carried a first name and every temple a surname, so a pair was ordered the way a person is introduced: Theo Doe, black. The fitting happened in person at a pop-up — measure the face, choose the combination, print it for that head only, with its own temple length embossed into the arm. Two lens grades, roughly €200 and €300 with lenses in.

Custom fit is not a design problem. It is a manufacturing problem, and printing is the only tool that makes a batch of one cost what a batch of a thousand costs.

Kokosom collection: nine fronts, three temples, six colours
Theo Doe, black — three views
Kokosom frame worn
Kokosom leather case, logo embossed
What it proved

The bottleneck was never the printer. It was the tape measure: a pop-up fitting does not scale, and an online store needs a way to measure a face through a screen. 3D scanning was the direction we were pushing toward.

Neither Fabrigate nor Kokosom was ever wound up. They simply stopped getting my attention in 2016, when I co-founded 3DBear — the same problem at a scale I could not solve one face at a time. Five years of printing objects for individuals turned into a decade of teaching other people to print their own.

Image · 16:9 · closing image — to be chosen
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